Owner's Guide to the Cape May, NJ Area

 

Welcome to Cape May Point and Glad Tidings. The name of the house is Glad Tidings, a play on our name and the ocean tides.

Our Family

We’ve been coming to Cape May Point for about 25 years. And even now when we cross that Cape May Bridge, I can feel a body change. I love smelling the aroma of the ocean or the Bay and hearing the gulls chatter. I feel like I’m entering another world, another time, another existence. (Is this scaring you? Scares me!)

The odd thing is that even in the early days when we stayed in Cape May, we always ended up on the Whilldin Street beach. In fact, we’ve never been on the Cape May beach in all 25 years! The Whilldin Street beach was a bit larger years ago with an entrance over by St. Mary's By-the-Sea. The tides from major storms have taken their toll, but I now see a resurgence of this beach. With time and management, it will return. It is a pleasant beach with people taking their early morning walks and fisherman poised on the jetties. We used to walk to the south end of Cape May via the Lighthouse beach as it goes by the State Park. We’d have breakfast there and walk back. The walk back was always slower, of course. (Maybe then a brisk nap!) Or we’d go the other way to Sunset Beach for a cup of coffee.

A Few Suggestions for Activities

Cape May Point is a small borough with a year round population of about 267. So small, it’s easy to take daily leisurely walks and see it all.

Stroll by Pavilion Circle, which hasn’t had a pavilion on it in years. It is beautifully kept, by volunteers mostly. On the circle is the only commercial establishment in town, the General Store. (If the store is closed or doesn’t have what you want, take a two-mile trip down Sunset Boulevard to Cape May). Nothing is farther than a half-mile from the circle. The Cape May Point Bird Sanctuary is only a block away. Out by the water, not far from the convergence of the ocean and the bay, is the State Park, with its Lighthouse and Museum and its miles of hiking trails. The Cape May Point Lighthouse is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. It’s a wonderful climb of 218 steps to the top of the 157-foot tower where you enjoy the view. And while you’re in the area, stop by the Cape May Point State Park and look at some of the vintage photographs of the site at the museum. Or walk by St. Mary's By-the-Sea where The Sisters of St. Joseph come to summer.

Check out the local spaghetti dinners and pancake breakfasts at the Firehouse. You can get to meet the locals that way. Walk by St. Peter’s Episcopal Church too (The Gingerbread Church).

Did I mention Lake Lily? Several years ago, as residents waited in anticipation, a swan gave birth on Mother’s day to eight tiny Mute Swans. It’s a wonderful life.

Birding, of course, is no small thing here at the Point. The book, Birding in the Delaware Valley Region, says the fall migrations bring to Cape May Point “an extravaganza that is matched by few other places in North America”. Hordes of them arrive like clockwork every year, spreading across the landscape, infesting the woods and fields, carrying binoculars and cameras. I’m talking about the birders here. The birds also rest up here for their flights across the bay heading to who knows where but many do go to South America.

The Lighthouse

The Lighthouse is always an enduring symbol for us; a solid base and a proud history of service. In a sense I feel protected by it; a confident sentry doing its duty. Its light washes slowly across our window at night, ever present. Try walking at night around the Point near the Lighthouse and feel its power. Tells me everything will be all right in this place and at this time.

It is also a great place during the day to get the lungs moving by climbing the steps to the top, (all 218 of them). It is a spectacular view and more than a bit windy up there. Mariah did it several years ago so I know you can.

The Cape May Lighthouse is actually the third lighthouse to exist at Cape May Point. The first lighthouse was built in 1821. This lighthouse was undermined by the sea and was replaced by the second structure was built in 1847 but was built so poorly that the third structure--the present lighthouse at Cape May Point--was built in 1859. The tower of the second lighthouse was removed, and the base of it was converted to a storage shed. The base of the second lighthouse was washed away in the 1970s, and its site is now out in the water.

The Cape May Lighthouse contains 217 steps to the top. It is still maintained by the US Coast Guard today as an aid to navigation. The Coast Guard leases the lighthouse to the State of New Jersey, which in turn sub-leases the lighthouse to the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts (MAC). Over the past couple decades, MAC has been leading an effort to restore the structure. MAC has restored the interior of the structure, has repainted the structure, and has added necessary safety features so that the public may climb it. The lighthouse is currently open to the public, who may climb all the way to the top for a modest fee.

The Dolphins

I always bring binoculars to the beach and hope to see the dolphins. I’m ignorant after all these years of the whys and whens of their appearance, but I do enjoy the anticipation of seeing them. They swim in schools close to the beach past the jetties; first one way and then later to return. Their bodies glisten in the sunlight as they break water and I scan the sea to see when they’ll come back up. Sometimes they stop and play and splash and turn and curl. What a sight!

Beach Tags

I hate beach tags. I hate the idea of beach tags. I believe the beaches and the ocean should belong to everyone without having to pay for the privilege of touching them. Nonetheless, like death and taxes, they are a fact of life. At one time we provided beach tags for our tenants. We found out quickly that they get lost, or are inadvertently left on swimsuits as people go home. They are gone. We’d get a call from the next tenant, “Where are the beach tags?” So we stopped. Incidentally, the borough of Cape May Point has been putting pressure on homeowners not to pass along tags. They’re losing revenue, they say. Go figure.

The State Park

The Cape May Lighthouse is located adjacent to the Cape May Point State Park. The grounds of the park were formerly a Naval Base during World War II. When the land was a Navy base, a bunker complete with gun mounts was erected and buried. The base was operated after WWII and eventually decommissioned, its lands being transferred to the State of New Jersey.

Cape May Point State Park contains a museum and interpretive center that highlights its natural and military past. Both its natural and military histories complement each other, as relics of the past military facilities highlight the area's coastal evolution.

Cape May Point State Park is also a haven for bird watchers. The park contains nature trails through forests and freshwater marshlands. Migratory birds are "funneled" to the tip of Cape May because of the lands geography, and the State Park is a stopping place for the birds before they cross the Delaware Bay.

Cape May Point General Store

“Whooite, Whooeat or Rye” she said over and over consistently and with style in the small breakfast room in the back. This is what the Point is all about. Serving up a wonderful meal - very basic and good. A little closed in, perhaps, but that’s good when it’s a small crowd and you get to know the next table. The General Store is where the locals meet to discuss politics and whatever, and have a cup of morning coffee after a brisk walk. The store has a little bit of everything. Well maybe not carburetors, though I suspect there is one hiding on a shelf somewhere behind a good book.

Sunset Beach

You must travel to Sunset Beach one night just before dusk. Aside from having some interesting little shops (its officially in West Cape May), there is the remnant of a concrete ship built in World War that foundered off the coast and now seems to be some kind of memorial. I don’t get it. But what I do get is the wonderful evening ceremony of the lowering of the flag at dusk. They generally pick a young person to help lower the flag after Kate Smith sings God Bless America over the loudspeaker and while they play the National Anthem. It’s awesome…

The Atlantus

Another famous site near Cape May Point is the sinking remains of the concrete ship "Atlantus." The sinking concrete off Sunset Beach in the Delaware Bay are all the remains of a ship which was at one time intended to be used as a ferry slip.

Four ships were constructed from concrete during World War I when steel was in short supply. Because of their inefficiencies, these ships were scrapped soon after they were built. A businessman, hoping to build a ferry service between Cape May and Lewes, Delaware, decided to purchase three of these concrete ships and use them to make a "Y"-shaped slip for the ferries to dock.

The Atlantus was towed from the James River in Virginia to Sunset Beach off Cape May. It was moored off the beach, awaiting construction of the slip. However, during a ferocious storm, the ship broke free of her moorings and became permanently wedged in the sand. Several attempts to free the ship failed, and the plan sunk with the boat.

The ship has slowly been sinking into the sand over the years. Today, the hulk still juts out of the Delaware Bay, though it is not recognizable as a ship anymore. Tourists still visit Sunset Beach to see Atlantus and to watch beautiful sunsets over the bay. If it were up to me, I’d have blown it to smithereens a long time ago.

Cape May Linen Outlet

I hate this place. My wife loves it. When she walks into this tiny, overstocked store, they say, “Oh, Hi Mariah”, like the croupiers in Atlantic City when they see a high roller. They obviously smell a sale. And sales there are. If you like this kind of place it’s loaded with decent quality linen goods at great prices. We shop here for our shore house, our main house, and gifts for weddings. I say we but I mean she shops here. I just hang out with a long face saying, “Can we go now” while all the time wishing I were at Swain’s hardware store.

Cape May Wicker

Another place to spend money you may or may not have. But you won’t spend much. That’s because its soooo cheap here. Besides wicker at great prices they have neat little goodies made in faraway places. There were some great metal 5-foot tall pink flamingos we passed on (This isn’t Florida), and all kinds of holiday decorated baskets that I can’t figure out how it all happens. Let’s see, I buy it for $2.25. I’ll guess the store buys it for $1.25. Shipping from Taiwan costs $.25 each, storage is $.15, the wholesaler in Taiwan gets $.25, the materials cost $.35. So the person who makes it, buys the materials, soaks and twists the wicker, paints it with details, glues on the ornaments and gets $.50. I’m already feeling guilty I told you this.

Cape May Whale Watcher

We went on this ride several years ago to try something new, never expecting to see much. But were we ever wrong! We actually saw about 20 whales and scores of dolphins. Overall sighting rate is about 68% for whales and 98% for dolphins. The most frequently sighted whales are humpback whales and finback whales. It was actually kind of funny because people were moving from one side of the boat to another every time someone yelled, “there’s another one...” We saw breeching and spouting and one whale kept slapping the top of the water with its fin. The boat started counting…18…19…20,…48…49…50,…76…77…78,…until it stopped slapping at 98. What fun! My son, Cole, won a Whale Watcher poster for the most seagulls taking popcorn from his hand during the trip. I can’t guarantee your trip, but ours was a blast.

Cape May County Park Zoo

Please check out this zoo. You’ll be in for a very pleasant surprise. It is one of the cleanest, best managed, interesting zoos I have ever seen. You are up close to the animals, the walkways are unique, the landscaping is incredible and it feels civilized. Remember I told you so.

Restaurants

For some reason it struck me the first time I walked in the door. I can’t pinpoint it. The artwork. The openness. The Bar. The ambiance felt like a favorite restaurant in Carmel, California. So when my wife and I want a treat - a night out- we go to Waters Edge. It is pricy for sure but one of only a few places I will go for an evening of dining. Not eating, but dining. It’s casual and fun.

“I’m sad”…Waters Edge is no longer in business. But there is now another restaurant there called the Pier House at the Water’s Edge. Same location so let me know what you think.

We go to Dock Mike’s for breakfast because over the years we’ve developed a relationship with the people there that is warm and friendly. Recently a long time waitress died and it felt like family. Her picture is now on their wall. Best pancakes in town and best service.

We always enjoy McGlades; a cozy beachfront restaurant nestled behind the convention Center on the boardwalk. With a great view of the beach it’s a breezy, canopy covered deck with an interesting menu of omelets or make your own. Mariah has a favorite tomato, onion, and asparagus done as scrambled eggs. I’m trying to get them to call it the ‘Mariah’ on their menu. Go there and order a ‘Mariah’ and see what they say. They also have a juice bar next door where you can get carrot and celery drink and feel healthy.

You must go to Menz Restaurant at Rt. 47 in Rio Grande. The place is chock full of ‘stuff’ collected over many years by Mr. Menz who died in 1993. (Not to mention the stuffed two-headed calves). He used to hand out lollipops to little ones who came with their families. There is still a penny candy bar where we would send our kids after dinner with a dollar. They loved it. The food is good and wholesome. Look for the fried tomatoes in season, though tomatoes aren’t what they used to be here in New Jersey. Theirs are big, ripe and juicy. (PS look for small buttons in the crushed shells in the parking lot. Why?… I don't know).

Mangia Mangia is a local favorite.

Godmothers has gone through several changes over the years. I don't know if its the ownership or the chef but the food today is much better than it was which was much worse than it was before then. Got that! I hate Italian restaurants that serve bland tasteless ketchup as sauce and have no character or style to their food or menu. Godmothers has come back. I hope for good. I can’t guarantee it.

Bella Vida Garden Café is a very nice little family-owned and locals-populated breakfast and lunch place. The food is good, the service is friendly and they are vegetarian friendly. This neighborhood cafe has a family friendly, small town atmosphere and lots of home cooking, whether you're looking for a veggie sandwich or a serious burger. Mariah likes to order their bagels, which are from LeBus Bakery in Philadelphia.

On the way back to Glad Tidings, turn at Fourth Avenue and see if you can find your way back. It’s an interesting detour, passing by the Rea Farm with fresh vegetables, plants, flowers, a nursery and fall hayrides to the pumpkin patch. You’ll also pass by a new vineyard, Willow Creek Winery, part of an agricultural trend in Cape May that is being replicated throughout the state. In 1987, there were 12 wineries in the state. Now there are 30 active wineries with about 10 more up and coming.